The text below is mostly summaries with some extracts
from the original text. The links are to Google Books,
usually to the first item of interest rather than the
first page of a parish. The NSA for Kincardineshire
is volume 11. Some notes from MacFarlane's Geographical
Collections have been added - these are useful as they
date from the 1720's. See here
for further information and links.
More
information about parishes can be found on the Vision
of Britain site and on Scotland's
Places.
The
map is based on the quarter-inch OS maps for The Eastern
Highlands and the Forth and Tay, 1923. With thanks to
Ordnance Survey. The image of Gannachy Bridge is from
Forfarshire
Illustrated, Gershom Cumming,
1843. The old photographs of
the Bridge of Feugh at Banchory-Ternan, and Stonehaven
are from the Detroit Publishing Company's Views of Landscape
and Architecture in Scotland - see thumbnails on Library
of Congress site here.
Overview
 |
Some
features of interest from the Accounts. The dotted
line is the course of a supposed Roman road ("Romanum
Iter Suppositum") shown on Robertson's
map. The continuation northward can be seen
here.
Parish centres are shown as red dots as are a few
other places of interest and some of the main bridges.
Forfarshire and Kincardineshire (Angus and Mearns)
are well known for the Mounth passes which cross
from Strathmore over to Deeside. Four of these are
shown here (there are others), namely: the Causey
Mounth road which had two stretches of causeway
across boggy land; the Slug road, still used today;
the Cryne's Cross Mounth that gave access to the
Paldy Fair and St Palladius's shrine at Auchenblae
as well as further south; and the Cairn a'Mounth
road so familiar from weather reports for being
closed due to snow in winter (Banchory to Fettercairn). |
As
with Forfarshire there are mentions of Roman camps though
not roads although Robertson's map obligingly shows the
line of a supposed road through Strathmore.
As so much research as been carried out in this area it
is better to rely on this rather than on the statistical
accounts: overviews can be seen on Scotland
during the Roman Empire (Wikipedia); www.Roman-Britain.org,
The
Roman Gask Project - see also the map of Roman advances
on the Forfarshire
page.
There
are several references to St Palladius, an obscure saint
to us but seemingly a focus in the middle ages and later
for pilgrimages to his shrine in Fordoun.
There
were two early routes to Aberdeen, one running through
Strathmore from Perth and the other near the coast that
passed through Montrose; these joined near Stonehaven.
Near to Aberdeen, this road passed over a moss and two
lengths of causeway were built across this, hence the
name Causey Mounth. A toll-point and barrier was erected
at a place called Causeway Port, as well as one in the
city of Aberdeen. There were also roads over other Mounth
passes, for example the Slug Road between Stonehaven
and Banchory, the Crynecross road (sometimes called
Cryne's Cross road) that gave access from Durris and
the north to the Paldy Fair and St Palladius's shrine
near Fordoun and on to Laurencekirk and the south, and
the well-known military road from Fettercairn over the
Cairn a'Mount pass. Oddly enough, although this road
is mentioned, the role of the military in its making
is not referred to. All of these routes date from at
least the middle ages, and no doubt earlier. They were
long used for droving. In the Old Deeside Road, G M
Fraser says that there was a 30 yard stretch of paving
on the Cryne's Cross road.
There
are several references to early bridges and to the fords
and sometimes ferry boats that preceded them. These
were often dangerous and many lives had been lost over
the years.
There
were a number of ports along the coast such as Johnshaven,
Gourdon, and Stonehaven where coal and lime was landed
and grain exported. In some places smaller vessels would
simply unload their cargoes on the beach. By the time
of the NSA steamships were starting to take cattle to
London and the south, a development that undermined
the traditional droving trade.
The
two main roads mentioned above were made into turnpikes
early on, and other roads made under the statute labour.
As elsewhere roads were poor at the time of the OSA
but had greatly improved by the 1830's and now carried
considerable traffic.
Other
sources
RCAHMS
Canmore
search for "roads" in Kincardineshire - 93 records,
mostly of bridges; also search for "track"
- 6 records.
A
general view of Kincardineshire or The Mearns, George
Robertson, Board of Agriculture, 1810
Section on roads.
The
Parish of Fordoun, Charles A. Mollyson, 1893
Heritage
Paths - see Grampian and Angus and Tayside for details
of paths over the Mounth
Grampian Ways, Robert Smith, John Donald Publishers,
2002 -
details of the Mounth passes
The
Old Deeside Road, G M Fraser, 1921, reprinted 1983 -
details of the Mounth passes. Also The
Mounth Passes over the Grampians, G M Fraser, Scottish
Geographical Magazine, Volume 36, 1920, pages 116 -
122 and continued on pages 169 - 180
The Mounth Passes: A Heritage Guide to the Old Ways
Through the Grampian Mountains. Nate Pedersen and Neil
Ramsay, with photographs by Graham Marr. This is an
eBook and is a compilation of a series of articles the
authors wrote for Leopard magazine in Scotland between
2011 and 2012. Published: January 2014. The British
version is available here.
Arbuthnot
OSA
Vol.17, page 385
Page 387 The farmers use coal from the Firth of Forth.
Those who cannot afford this have to use very poor quality
turfs and peats.
Page 389 Produce. He notes: “A great bar
to improvement in this parish, is the want of roads,
there being hardly a track in it which deserves that
name.”
Page 390 One carrier, two ale houses.
Page 392 Antiquities. He says that there are
vestiges of ramparts at Castledykes near Bervy river
that are suggestive of Roman fortifications.
NSA
11/153
Page 163 Parochial Economy.
Market-Town, Post-Office, etc. Bervie has a post-office
and is the nearest market town. The great road that
leads through Stonehaven and Laurencekirk runs through
the north part of the parish for 2½ miles. A
new road runs 5 miles between the bridges of Bervie
and Whiteriggs.
Inns. Five.
Fuel. Coal obtained at Gordoun. Some turf is
also used.
1838
 Banchory-Devenick
OSA
Vol.4, page 450
Page 451 Mention of granite quarries - the stone is used
for buildings in Aberdeen and is also sent to London.
There are about a dozen public houses.
Page 452 Peats are sold in Aberdeen.
Page 453 River, sea coast etc. Details of fishing
at Findon and Potlatches - the catches are sold in Aberdeen.
Page 456 Miscellaneous Observations. He remarks:
“We have in general good materials for making roads,
but the statute-labour, which is partly commuted, and
partly paid in kind, is not sufficient for keeping them
in repair. I am persuaded we never shall have good roads
till turnpikes are established. Many of the country gentlemen
are, I believe, sensible of this; but the measure would
be strongly opposed by the town of Aberdeen, which would
be severely affected by it, and which has an interest
in the parish.”
NSA
11/178
Lime
and coal is landed at Portlethen; however, the road
up from the shore is very steep.
page 184 Parochial Economy.
Market-Town—Means of Communication. The nearest
market-towns are Aberdeen and Stonehaven.
The Aberdeen to Edinburgh turnpike and the Deeside turnpike
pass through, as does a commutation road on the south
side of the river.
The present incumbent has had a suspension bridge built
over the Dee so that those on the north side of the
river can more easily reach the church. It cost L1400
and another L50 for an embankment on the south side.
Its total length is 305 feet.
A turnpike road is being made on the south side of the
Dee and will replace the commutation road.
Public houses. Eight. Only the one at Bourtreebush
on the road between Stonehaven and Aberdeen is necessary
along with two others in coastal villages as wrecks
sometimes occur.
Fuel. Although peat is available, coal is preferred
as it is cheaper.
1838
Macfarlane
Banchory Devenock in Aberdeen and Merns 1725
Vol.1, Page 107 Banchory Devenock church is one mile
from the Bridge of Dee leading to Aberdeen close by.
Parishoners pay for a ferry boat to take them across
the river on the Sabbath.
“To the north of Auchorties 1½ mile is the
Caulsay port with a large Caulsay which pass throw a
large moss and the port was built and the Caulsay laid
1684 by the City of Aberdeen and the said town setts
in tack the said port to a man who gathers up from every
horse that passes throw the port eight pennies Scots.
At the north end of the said Caulsay passes throw the
Grampian hills which goe straight to the sea, and there
is a large highway passes from Aberdeen to Edinburgh
along this Caulsay.” - see also Causey
Mounth
Highway from Aberdeen to the Highlands on the north
side of the river.
 Banchory-Ternan
OSA
Vol. 7, page 369
Page 371 Coal is brought some 18 miles for burning lime
- there is an unjust tax on it.
Page 372 Mr Russel of Blackhall has made a fine bridge
over the Freuch near to its confluence with the Dee close
to Banchory, along with some fine and useful roads.
NSA
11/323
Page 329 Mention of a bridge over the Dee at the confluence
with the Feugh. Bridge over the Feugh below a waterfall.
Page 330 Mention of bridge of Potarch.
Page 335 Civil History. He describes the remains
of a large encampment at Cairnton which commands a pass
between the heights of Inchmarlo and the Dee, through
which the present road lies. Some think it Roman in origin.
He refers to the Cairn o’Month pass that must have
been long used to cross from the Mearns into the Garioch
and Buchan. It would also have been used by pilgrims to
the shrine of Palladius at Fourdon.
Page
348 Modern Buildings. The Bridge of Dee was built
by public subscription in 1798 (note: this is a different
"bridge of Dee" from that in Banchory-Devenick,
just south of Aberdeen, which dates from 1527). It had
a central wooden arch and side arches of stone. Having
been damaged in the flood of 1829, the central arch was
replaced with one of iron by the trustees of the Stonehaven
road. The bridge of Feugh is also of note.
Page 355 Parochial Economy.
Villages. A few buildings near the church are all
that remains of the old village of Banchory. He says:
“The only road from Aberdeen on the north side of
the Dee, forty years ago, passed through it, and it had
then a flourishing inn.”
The new village, Arbeadie was set up in the early 1800’s.
Among details of interest he notes that it had a post
office, three inns, a coachman, a carrier, a letter-carrier,
and a road-contractor.
Fairs. Six fairs spread throughout the year. The
oldest of these is St Ternan’s Fair. They are somewhat
in decline as there are so many fairs elsewhere.
Roads. In describing the roads he says:
| “The
village is distant from Aberdeen exactly eighteen
miles, with which it communicates by a direct central
road passing through it, and extending to Braemar.
Parallel to this, and communicating with it near
the church by a cross road from Raemoir, is a turnpike
running along the base of the Hill of Fare for five
miles, and connecting the northern parts of this
and the neighbouring parish of Kincardine with Aberdeen
through Skene, &c. Another turnpike leaves the
village on the south, and passing the Dee immediately
below, and shortly afterwards the Feugh, by the
bridges already noticed, it occupies the south bank
of the river for about a mile, and then diverges
across the Grampians to the county town, Stonehaven,
sixteen miles distant, while from the point of divergence
a new turnpike continues along the Dee to Aberdeen.
From the Bridge of Feugh a county road passes up
the side of that stream for two miles, and, crossing
the Grampians at the pass of Cairn o' Month, reaches
Fettercairn, seventeen miles distant. A considerable
transit takes place on this route during summer,
in driving cattle from the fairs in Garioch and
Buchan to the southern markets. A mail-coach passes
through the village daily; and a stage-coach during
one-half of the year leaves it for Aberdeen every
morning, and returns at night. There are also eight
carriers who leave the parish weekly for that place,
most of whom generally take with them a load of
timber, and bring back coal, lime, and other goods
in return. Wood, both in rafts and in single pieces,
are transmitted hence by the Dee in every favourable
state of the flood; and large quantities are seen
passing this from the upper districts.” |
1842
MacFarlane
Description
Upper Banchory, Doors and Strachan in Merns with notes
of Mary Culter etc 1724
Upper Banchory (Banchory Terman/Banchory Trinity)
Vol.1, Page 259 Two passage boats near Banchory.
 Benholme
OSA
Vol. 15, page 217
Page 226 The parish is “much infested with vagrants,
especially from the North.”
Page 234 Coal along with some lime imported and grain
exported through Johnshaven. Until recently Montrose was
the only grain market in the area but one is now established
in Johnshaven which is much nearer.
Page 235 Among the trades mentioned are 4 inn-keepers,
5 chapmen, 4 carriers, 1 penny post between Bervie and
Johnshaven. There are 48 two-wheel carts and 3 four-wheel
carriages.
Page 237 Roads and Bridges. The post road between
Montrose and Aberdeen runs parallel to the coast, about
a mile inland - there are two bridges on it but it is
quite hilly near these bridges. It is in poor condition
due to the soil and the difficulty of bringing gravel
up from the shore. The cross-roads are also very poor,
the statute labour is performed reluctantly. A turnpike
road has often been mooted through the county.
Disadvantages.—The
parish has bad roads and a poor harbour. Despite the high
price of coal a better harbour would remove any shortages
by allowing them to be landed throughout the year.
NSA
11/51
Page 60 Parochial Economy. Market-Town. Montrose
ten miles away and more recently Bervie where there
is a grain market. The grain is shipped at Gourdon.
Means of Communication. Post town is Bervie.
Three miles of the Aberdeen to Dundee turnpike pass
through and parish roads are improving.
The Royal Mail (Edinburgh to Aberdeen) and the New Times
between Dundee and Aberdeen pass through and sometimes
a light coach from Montrose to Aberdeen.
There are 2 fine bridges on the turnpike and 2 on the
old post-road.
Alehouses. Ten.
Fuel. Coal, mostly from England. Scotch coal
is brought in to Johnshaven once a year.
MacFarlane
Description
of Aberluthnet Parish, Benholm, Garvok, Cyris, Glenbervie
in Merns, Edzel in Angus 1724
Benholm
Vol.1, Page 263 Highway runs north-south with bridges
over streams.
 Bervie
OSA
Vol. 13, page 1
Page 3 Details of smuggling, which was now declining.
Page 5 Five ale houses and a tavern used by travellers.
There is a weekly market, set up about 18 months ago and
two fairs held last year on the town’s moor are to
be continued. They are for livestock, grain and the hire
of servants.
There is a small port at Gourdon at which coal and lime
is landed. From there grain is exported to the ports on
the Forth or to Glasgow and Greenock by the canal.
Page 9 Tenants are required to carry out services such
as carrying grain, coal and peat for the two proprietors
in the parish.
Page 11 There is a bridge over the Bervie and a new one
planned. Turnpikes are currently being considered.
NSA
11/1
Page 9 To the north-east of the town there is a fine
bridge 80 feet high, that has proved resistant to flood
damage.
There are 3 carriers, and several carters.
Page 15 Navigation. The Port of Gourdon lies
in the parish. Coal, lime etc brought here and grain
exported. Cattle and ponies are sometimes brought in
from Orkney and Shetland.
Page 15 Parochial Economy.
Burgh of Inverbervie. Linen trade carried out in
the town. There is a large grain market, most of which
is shipped through Gourdon.
The Fishing Village of Gourdon. Details of the
fishing trade. There are large storage sheds for grain,
coal, lime etc.
Means of Communication. Post office. Turnpike
road with 2 daily coaches - the Royal Mail between Edinburgh
and Aberdeen and the Times between Aberdeen and Perth.
These change their horses at the main inn.
Page 20 Fairs. Two fairs, one a cattle market.
In 1834, three additional markets were set up.
Inns. There are several of these. At the main
inn, the King’s Arms, a post-chaise and gig can
be hired.
Fuel. Coal from Sunderland and the Forth.
Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last account
the bridge has been built, as well as excellent roads.
MacFarlane
Description of the Parishes of Dunotar, Katerline
and Kineff, Bervie, Arbuthnot in Merns 1724
Bervy
Vol.1, Page 266 Handsome stone bridge.
 Dunnottar
OSA
Vol. 11, page 214
The parish stands at the north-east end of Strathmore
along which invaders have always come using the fords
over the Tay above Perth and being blocked by the Grampians
to the west. There are a series of Roman camps at the
foot of the hills and it is thought that the battle of
Mons Graupius was fought near here as it fits the description
given by Tacitus. In the parish of Fetteresso, 3 miles
to the north of here there are remains of an irregular
camp thought to have been that of the natives and a Roman
encampment near the beach, the traces of which have been
affected by agricultural improvements.
There is a harbour at Stonehaven which has great potential
for expansion. At present some coal and lime from Sunderland
and the Forth, and some Baltic cargoes of wood, iron and
flax passes through it.
Page 220 Four fairs. Although coal is expensive because
of a tax, people believe it is cheaper than peat which
have to be brought from 6 miles away.
Page 222 Produce. Bear, barley and meal sent to
Aberdeen.
Page 226 Roads. The Perth road and the Edinburgh
post-road by Dundee, Arbroath and Montrose run through
the parish and join at Stonehaven. The statute labour
roads are very bad as the system does not operate well;
it would be better if commuted. The need for turnpikes
is becoming apparent and an act of parliament is to be
sought as well as a commutation of the statute labour.
NSA
11/212Trade and Shipping.—Details given
of the imports at Stonehaven.
page 228 Parochial Economy. Means of Communication.
The excellent post-road along the coast from Edinburgh
and the great Strathmore road pass through - they meet
at Stonehaven.
The statute labour roads are excellent and have greatly
helped the improvement of the parish.
1842
MacFarlane
Description of the Parishes of Dunotar, Katerline and
Kineff, Bervie, Arbuthnot in Merns 1724
Dunnotar
Page 265 Highway goes close to Bridgeford towards Stonehaven.
 Durris
OSA
Vol. 3, page 258
Page 259 Hills. At the foot of Cragg Beg there
is a cavern where a band of robbers sheltered and committed
many depredations. A road to Stonehaven passes nearby
- it is called the Stag-road (note: presumably the
Slug road which passes to the east of Cragg Beg - the
Crynecross road passes to the west of this hill - see
Kincardineshire 6"map sheet
XI).
Page 260 Fuel. Peat and turf.
NSA
11/170
Page 175 Parochial Economy,
Means of Communication. Produce is taken 13 miles
to markets in Aberdeen and Stonehaven. The nearest post
office is Banchory but farmers find Aberdeen more convenient
as they are often there on business.
A turnpike called the Slug Road runs between Stonehaven
and Banchory - 4 miles pass through this parish. There
is also a good commutation road running to Aberdeen
on the south side of the River Dee, and some cross roads
are currently being formed.
A new turnpike road is being made between Aberdeen and
Banchory Ternan, 5½ miles of which will run through
this parish.
Fairs. Three small cattle fairs.
Inns. Four.
Fuel. Mostly peat and turf.
1838
MacFarlane
Description
Upper Banchory, Doors and Strachan in Merns with notes
of Mary Culter etc 1724
Durres
Vol.1, Page 261 Within a mile from the church there
are two passage boats over the Dee on a public road
that passes over the Cryncross-Mouth. There are three
bridges south west of the church within 1½ miles.
Description of some paroches in Merns and Aberdenshire
Doors
Vol.1, Page 429 Two boats on the Dee, ½ mile
east and west of the church. Public highway goes north
by the Cryn crosmonth.
| Fettercairn |
 |
View
Larger Map Cairn a'Mount
Road
OSA
Vol. 5, page 330
Page 333 Roads and Bridges.—The two main
roads and their bridges are in excellent condition,
owing in great part to the efforts of the principal
heritor.
Gannachie Bridge on the west side of the parish crosses
the North Esk and was funded by a James Black, tenant
of Wood Farm, some 60 years ago (1732).
NSA
11/111
Page 111 Topography And Natural History.
Name. “This parish is supposed, by some, to
have derived its name from its vicinity to the Cairn-o-Mount,
a part of the Grampian mountains, over which the public
road to Aberdeenshire passes, and to which it begins
to ascend, at a small distance, to the north of the
village.”
Page 118 Antiquities. He writes:
 |
"The
only other antiquity, to be noticed, is the Gannachy
Bridge. It is built across the North Esk, on two
steep rocks, and forms the communication between
Fettercairn and Edzell. The arch is about 30 feet
high, and 52 wide; and yet the quantity of water
in the river, in August 1829, almost completely
filled it. The original bridge was built by James
Black, tenant in Wood, parish of Edzell, in 1732,
at an expense of 300 merks Scotch. Being too narrow
from parapet to parapet, it was widened by adding
another arch to the side of it, so as to make
it about 20 feet wide. This was done in 1796 by
Lord Adam Gordon, and the Honourable William Maule,
now Lord Panmure, at their own expense, said to
have amounted to L.300."
|
| Gannachy
Bridge, from
Forfarshire
Illustrated, Gershom
Cumming, 1843 |
Improvements.
Several miles of road have been made on the estate of
Arnhall.
Page 124 Parochial Economy. Means of Communication
etc. The nearest market town is Montrose, 12 miles
away. There are two fairs at Fettercairn and a post-office
served from Montrose.
A carrier goes to Montrose and Aberdeen and a stage-coach
between Aberdeen and Dundee runs through every day except
Sunday. It goes through Forfar, Brechin, Slateford,
Fettercairn, Auchinblae, Drumlithie, and Stonehaven.
There is no turnpike road but there are good commutation
roads and bridges.
Page 127 Inns. Three.
Fuel. Peat and turf are used in the higher parts
of the parish but it is obtained with some expense and
difficulty. In the lower parts, coal is brought in from
Montrose.
MacFarlane
Description of the Parishes of Fettercairn, Fordun,
St Laurence and Mary Parish in Merns 1725
Fettercairn
Vol. 1, Page 267 Mention of “Northesque water bridge”,
and another bridge.
The
History of Fettercairn: A Parish in the County of Kincardine
(1899), Archibald Cowie Cameron.
Chapter
XXI, Bridges, fords and ferries, page 151; see also
page 133 Roman road
Fetteresso
OSA
Vol. 12, page 591
Page 593 Mention of the post-road near the coast.
Page 596 Antiquities. The camp of Ree-Dykes or
the King’s Dykes is thought to be a Roman camp
and used by them just before the battle of Mons Graupius.
NSA
11/244
Page 249 Antiquities. He refers to vestiges of
an old camp at Re-dykes, thought by some to be Roman,
and to other remains near Stonehaven also thought to
be Roman.
He says:
| “The
Romans, in their incursions to the north, seem to
have proceeded from the Tay along the great valley
of Strathmore, which runs parallel to the Grampian
mountains, from Perth to Stonehaven. In this direction,
at about twelve miles distance from each other,
the stations they occupied appear to have been Strageth,
Grassy walls, Meigle, Battledykes, Keithock, Fordoun,
Stonehaven, Norman dykes, in the parish of Peterculter,
a station also somewhere near to the burgh of Inverury,
and Glenmailen (called also Re-dykes,) in the vicinity
of the source of the Ythan. By this course, it is
supposed that Agricola, having subdued the most
southern parts of Scotland, led an army of 26,000
men, during the seventh campaign, through the country
of the Horesti (Angus) towards the north, and fought
the great battle, " ad Montem Grampium"
against the Caledonians, who mustered 30,000, and
were led by their chief Galgacus.” |
He
then discusses the possibility that the battle of Mons
Graupius was fought near to Re-dykes.
Fisheries.
He gives details of the fishing trade. Smoked haddock
“is carried by cadgers to Forfar and Perthshire,
and by coaches and sea-carriage to Edinburgh and Glasgow;
a great deal also by steam-vessels from Aberdeen to
London.”
Page 261 Means of Communication. The turnpike
road from the south to Aberdeen was made about 1797.
This was followed in 1800 by the turnpike from Stonehaven
to Banchory-Ternan, and recently from Stonehaven to
the Dee by Netherly. There are also good roads under
“the commutation Act of Parliament.”
Post-Office etc. There are regular mail deliveries
at Stonehaven. Stagecoaches run to Aberdeen, Edinburgh
and Glasgow and there are “carriers in constant
employment in every direction.” Steamers sailing
between Edinburgh and Aberdeen call in at Stonehaven.
Markets. Dairy produce is sold at the weekly
market in Stonehaven with grain and cattle at certain
times of the year. Hiring of servants also takes place.
Cattle and horse fairs, formerly held at Megray, have
moved the 2 miles south to Stonehaven.
Inns etc. Forty licensed premises.
MacFarlane
Description Parish of Fetteresso (Kincardineshire)
Vol.1, Page 247 The Edinburgh to Aberdeen road runs
the length of the parish.
 Fordoun
OSA
Vol. 4, page 494
Page 495 Population etc. A weekly fair, mostly
for cattle, is held in Auchinblae between Michaelmas and
Christmas.
Page 498 He describes the remains of what appears to have
been a Roman camp.
He relates the tradition of Kenneth III being killed by
Finella on pilgrimage to the shrine of St Palladius. St
Palladius had been sent to Scotland by the Pope in the
5th century to oppose Pelagianism and may have appointed
the first bishops in Scotland.
A mount called the Green Castle is thought by some to
have been a residence of Finella, by others a refuge of
cattle thieves from the Highlands.
Page 499 Eminent Men. Chapel of St Palladius which
was a place of pilgrimage from all over Scotland.
Miscellanous Observations. In the south of the
parish, coal is brought some 10 miles from Stonehaven
or John’s Haven. In the northern part, peat and turf
are brought from the Grampians.
The post-roads and bridges are statute-labour, which is
exacted in kind. He says: “The cross roads are very
much neglected. The inhabitants in general are much averse
to turnpikes, thinking they would render their travelling
from place to place, and the carrying their goods to market,
much more expensive than at present.”
Mention of a great storm the previous year that hit the
Paldy Fair and made the Bervie river impassable for several
hours.
NSA
11/66
Page 66 Topography And Natural History. Name.
He refers to the chapel of St Palladius and suggests
that the saint did not live here but that monks from
Italy were responsible for the chapel and establishing
it as a place of pilgrimage.
He gives details of the tradition that Finella killed
Kenneth III as he was on a pilgrimage to the shrine
in 994. This was in revenge for the death of her son
who had risen against Kenneth.
One of the largest markets in the Mearns was held at
the chapel. It still continues at a different location
and is known as the Paldy Fair.
Produce of the parish is taken to Stonehaven, Bervie
and Montrose, all from 10-15 miles distant.
Much gravel from the streams is used for making and
repairing the roads.
Peat from the Grampians is used as fuel.
Page 80 Maps. He refers to Garden’s
map of 1774.
Mention of the road by Cairn o’Mount.
Causeway across a moss at Kincardine Castle.
Page 85 He describes the remains of a Roman camp sited
near Fordoun House.
Page 87 Phesdo. Many roads have been made in
this estate.
Many walks made through the estate of Drumtochty Castle.
Page 95 Live-Stock. Details of livestock are
given.
The practice of cattle being bought by dealers and driven
to England for grazing before being sold is declining
with many cattle now taken to London by steam vessels.
Other cattle are taken to Glasgow and Edinburgh.
In the parish there are 48 carriage, post, gig, and
saddle horses. There are 9 carriers' horses.
Page
103 Parochial Economy.
Villages. Stonehaven, Montrose and and Gourdon are
easily reached from Auchinblae by turnpike and good
commutation roads. There is a daily post to Stonehaven
and Montrose. Forty miles or more of commutation roads
have been made and the bridges are in good condition.
Three miles of the Aberdeen to Edinburgh turnpike through
Strathmore passes through the parish. The Defiance and
the Union coaches run on this every day.
Page 108 Fairs etc. The Paldy Fair is held 2
miles north of Auchinblae for cattle, sheep and horses.
Another fair has been revived in the west part of the
parish. There are also 2 busy fairs in the village and
2 hiring fairs. Weekly markets are held here in winter
for grain and cattle. The only other fairs are two small
ones on Camack Muir.
Inns or Alehouses. One in Kirkton of Fordoun
and 5 in Auchinblae.
Fuel. Coal from Newcastle in the lower part of
the parish, and peat and turf from the Grampians in
the upper part.
MacFarlane
Description
of the Parishes of Fettercairn, Fordun, St Laurence
and Mary Parish in Merns 1725
Fordoun
Vol.1, Page 267 Bridge near Auchenblay and near Fordun.
Fordun
Page 269 Bridges at Auchenblay and near Fordun.
 Garvock
OSA
Vol. 3, page 545
Page 547 Fairs. A very large horse and cattle
fair called St James’s Fair is held each year.
(For an entertaining description of this fair see here
- from A general view of Kincardineshire or The Mearns,
George Robertson, Board of Agriculture, 1810)
NSA
11/22
Page 25 St Palladius, opponent of the Pelagian heresy,
lived in Auchinblae. His chapel was the resort of many
pilgrims. Kenneth III was murdered by Fenella daughter
of the Thane of Angus on a pilgrimage to the shrine
of St Palladius in 994.
Page 29 Peat moss. Most of the peat has been
exhausted.
Page 38 Much of a large cairn at the farm of Arthurhouse
removed for road metal.
Page 44 Livestock. It will soon be possible to
send livestock to London by steam vessels which is eagerly
anticipated.
Page 45 Parochial Economy.
Market town. The nearest is Montrose to where grain
and dairy products are taken. Also used is Bervie for
the sale of grain - it is then shipped from Gourdon.
Means of Communication. Post-office in Laurencekirk
served from Montrose by a foot-post. Travel to and through
the parish used to be difficult because of the hills
and the soil. Fifty years ago there were only cart roads,
formed by the passage of carts and horses. However there
are now two commutation roads, one from the turnpike
at Laurencekirk and another from the same road four
miles east. Both of these run to the turnpike on the
coast.
Page 49 Fairs. St James’s Fair on Hill of
Garvock. It used to be a general feeing fair but has
declined somewhat since two special feeing fairs were
set up.
Inns and alehouses. None. He hopes that these
“poisonous pests of society be kept at a distance
from Garvock!”
Fuel. Coal obtained at the ports of Gourdon,
Johnshaven or Montrose. Soime peat, moss and turf is
still used. Lord Kintore’s tenants are allowed
to bring peat and turf from a locality in the Grampians
but it is too far away to be useful.
 Glenbervie
OSA
Vol. 11, page 449
Page 453 The village of Drumlithie lies on the road from
Laurencekirk to Stonehaven.
NSA
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Page 167 Parochial Economy.
Market-Town—Means of Communication. The nearest
market town is Stonehaven, 7 miles away, reached by
excellent roads. Two stage coaches between Edinburgh
and Aberdeen and a daily post pass through most days.
Fairs. One cattle fair.
Alehouses. Five.
Fuel. Coal obtainable from Stonehaven and peat
in the upper parts of the parish.
 Kinneff
OSA
Vol. 6, page 197
Page 199 Coal and lime etc are unloaded on the beach at
Braddan-bay.
Page 201 Many cattle sold at market for the south. English
dealers are sometimes seen at the markets.
Page 202 The post road runs parallel to the coast through
the length of the parish. Farmers can obtain lime from
small barks that land on the beach at the two or three
places where carts can get access.
Page 203 Grain and meal is sent to Bervie, Johnshaven
and Montrose and then taken to the (Forth and Clyde) canal
for the west country. In the more northerly parts of the
parish and county there are ready markets in Stonehaven
and Aberdeen.
Page 206 Fish and Fuel. Details of the fishing.
Coal is brought from the south of Scotland and England.
Although there is a high tax on coal, it is still used
as it saves the time and trouble people had to go to 20
years ago to obtain peat from the hills 12 miles away.
Page 210 Miscellaneous remarks. Smuggling used
to be prevalent. The public and private roads are very
poor. Four miles of the Bervie to Stonehaven post road
runs through here. The statute labour system has not worked
well and the gentlemen of the county are considering obtaining
an act to either commute the statute labour or establish
turnpikes. The general feeling is in favour of the first
of these.
NSA
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Page 317 Parochial Economy.
Market towns. Stonehaven and Bervie.
Means of Communication. Excellent roads. In addition
to the great coast road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen and
the Strathmore road, there are 18 miles of parish roads.
He refers to a survey made for a railway between Aberdeen
and Crieff passing through Strathmore.
A pier has recently been constructed at Catterline which
will allow coal and lime to be off-loaded.
Page 318 Ecclesiastical State. Mention that there
was no bridge on the river of Bervie in 1608.
page 322 Inns. Three.
Fuel. Northumberland coal along with some broom,
peat and whins.
1842
MacFarlane
A
Geographical Description of the Parish of Kinneff &
Caterline, Kincardineshire
Vol. 1, Page258 The King’s highway from Montrose
to Aberdeen passes through - see also 266 below.
Katerline
& Kinneff
Vol.1, Page 266 (see also 258 above) “Highway betwixt
N.water bridge to the North parts goes ½ mile
North of Bridgefoord.”
 Laurencekirk
OSA
Vol. 5, page 175
Page 177 Grain produce sent to towns of Stonehaven, Montrose
and Brechin.
Page 178 Details of the growth of Laurencekirk and mention
of the king’s highway passing through the village.
Weekly markets and an annual fair are held there and it
has an inn convenient for travellers.
Page 180 Roads, Bridges, Minerals, Fuel. The roads,
which are statute labour, are reasonably good. The bridge
at the village has recently been widened and raised at
the expense of Lord Gardenstone.
Peat etc. and coal from Montrose are used as fuel.
Miscellaneous Observations. The great road from
Edinburgh to the north, through Perth, Aberdeen, Banff,
Elgin, Inverness, etc. passes through and is very busy
with travellers.
NSA
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page 141 New roads have been made in the parish with
many parish roads. Two roads make access to the coast
much easier.
Page 144 Parochial Economy. Markets, etc. The
charter obtained by Lord Gardenstone (in 1779) erecting
Laurencekirk into a burgh of barony states its limits
to be 838 yards on each side of the King’s Highway
as it passes through his lands.
Fairs. Seven fairs including the long-established
Laurence Fair. These are for the sale of cattle etc.
and hiring of servants.
Means of Communication. There is a daily post
and two coaches between Edinburgh and Aberdeen. One
comes by Dundee, the other by Perth. There are weekly
carriers to Aberdeen, Perth, Dundee and local towns.
Frequent carriers go to Montrose. There are four miles
of turnpike road.
MacFarlane
Description of the Parishes of Fettercairn, Fordun,
St Laurence and Mary Parish in Merns 1725
Conveth or Lawrencekirk
Vol.1, Page 268 The village is three miles north of
“north water bridge”, Timber bridge at Phesdou
and stone bridge at Bridge of Lepit on the Kings highway
between Lawrencekirk and Stonehaven. - see also page
270.
 Maryculter
OSA
Vol. 6, page 80
Page 81 There is a ferry over the Dee near to the manse
which can carry carriages and horses.
Page 82 Peat which is now scarce can be bought in Fetteresso,
or coal at a cheaper rate in Aberdeen.
Page 83 There are 40/50 carts, one waggon and one carriage
in the parish.
Page 84 The road on the south side of the Dee is in good
condition. The statute labour is both commuted and in
kind. Turnpikes are not needed or desired for this parish.
NSA
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page 193 Parochial Economy.
Means of Communication. Excellent roads and two
miles of turnpike road. No public carriage.
A new turnpike, 15 miles long, is almost complete and
runs through this and nearby parishes on the south side
of the Dee.
Page 195 Inns. One.
Fuel. Peat and coal.
1833
MacFarlane
Description of some paroches in Merns and Aberdenshire
Mary
Culter
Vol.1, Page 430 Passage boat over the Dee. Timber bridge
on Mary Culter Burn.
 Marykirk
OSA
Vol.18, page 608
Formerly known as Aberluthnot, it was made a burgh of
barony in 1543 with the right to a weekly market and annual
fair.
Page 610 The village of Ladykirk lies on the road between
Montrose and Laurencekirk. The village has two inns and
the streets are narrow and irregular. A broader (main)
street is being planned and subscriptions have lately
been taken up for a bridge over the North Esk. He notes
that: “within a few years, 2 persons have lost their
lives at the Ford, and Ferry-boat; and many other individuals,
by not being acquainted with the proper entry to the Ford,
or by the inattention or ignorance of some drivers of
carriages, have been exposed to the most imminent danger.”
Page 616 Poor. The former proprietor of Caldham
left money to keep a bridge over the Luther Water at Caldham
in repair.
Page 623 Most farmers bring their lime from East Mathers
which is 7 or 8 miles away.
Page 627 Mention of the post-road from Brechin to Laurencekirk
that passes through the parish.
Roads, Views, Rivers, Bridges, Rivulets.—There
are 3 public roads, made by the statute labour and in
good condition (he notes that much of the credit for this
must go to a local landowner who took a keen interest
in these matters); and several private roads that allow
access to the church, mills and nearby markets. The turnpike
from Brechin to the North Esk Bridge at Inglismaldie runs
through some fine scenery.
From this bridge, there is a public road to the Bridge
of Dy, by the gate of Inglismaldie and from the same gate,
the post-road to Laurencekirk, again through fine scenery.
In the nearby woods there is a stone bridge over the Luther.
The Luther is also crossed by a bridge at Caldham built
in 1783 which is on the public road between Marykirk and
Fettercairn.
Near to Laurencekirk “the road is much lengthened
by a disagreeable turning.”
NSA
11/297
Page 301 Modern Buildings. The bridge over the
North Esk, near the village of Marykirk was built between
1811 and 1813. The bridge over the same river on the
Edinburgh to Aberdeen road is very old - it is currently
being repaired.
Page 306 Parochial Economy. Market town. The
nearest is Montrose, 6 miles distant.
Means of Communication. Post-office in Marykirk,
serviced from Montrose. The Aberdeen to Perth turnpike
passes through, on which the Defiance coach runs to
Edinburgh most days. The commutation roads which serve
the various parts of the parish are in good condition,
as are the bridges. There is a need for a bridge over
the Luther at Mill of Barns.
Page 308 Fairs. St James’s Fair for livestock
and hiring harvest shearers used to be held at Hill
of Garvock but was moved to Balmakelly Moor recently
for the convenience of dealers.
Inns and Alehouses. Six.
Fuel. Coal from Montrose as well as brushwood.
Peat and turf can be obtained from the moss of Arnhall
in Fettercairn but not many farmers do this.
MacFarlane
Description
of Aberluthnet Parish, Benholm, Garvok, Cyris, Glenbervie
in Merns, Edzel in Angus 1724
Aberluthnet or Mary parish (Marykirk parish)
Vol.1, Page 262 Bridges over North Esk and other streams
- see also 268 below.
Mary or Aberluthnot
Vol.1, Page 268 (see also p 262) Mention of bridges,
viz. “North water bridge”, bridge over the
Luther and bridge below Englishmadie.
 Nigg
OSA
Vol.7, page 194
Page 196 The harbour of Aberdeen is at the mouth of the
Dee. On the south side is the pier of Torry where lime
is landed and stones taken on. The Dee is tidal beyond
the bridge for two miles but is navigable for only a mile
because of shoals.
Page 199 Ancient Population, and State. In discussing
reasons for a decline in population since 1740 he says
that the trade of carrying peats for sale to Aberdeen
stopped because of a prohibition, and the mosses being
worked out.
Page 200. Cultivation. Carts were introduced here
about 30 years ago and are now widely used.
Page 201 Manure. As well as animal dung and ashes,
fish remains and seaweed are used as manure. Lime is also
used.
Sixty nine carts and carriages are used for carrying stones.
Causeway stones. Stone is sent to London, Maidstone,
Ramsgate etc for use as paving.
NSA
11/195
Page 202 Population. The quarrying of paving
stones for London was carried out here to a great extent
some 70/80 years ago but has now almost ceased. Apart
from keeping the quarriers in work it was beneficial
for those with horses and carts who transported the
stones to Aberdeen. At the present time the parish supplies
milk to Aberdeen each day.
Page 206 Recent Improvements. Thirty years ago
a turnpike from the Bridge of Dee southwards was made
and 5 years ago another, running south in the middle
of the parish. It has a suspension bridge which gives
access to Aberdeen. It cost about L10,000 Sterling and
has a pontage on it.
There are other cross roads. One made many years ago
runs from the Bridge of Dee to the Bay of Nigg. Last
year a road one mile in length was made off the middle
turnpike to the coast.
Page 210 Parochial Economy. Market town etc.
Aberdeen. There are two bridges over the Dee, the old
bridge of Dee made by Bishop Dunbar some 300 years ago
and Wellington Bridge, the suspension bridge mentioned
above.
Page 211 Inns and Public Houses. Ten or so.
Fuel. Peat and turf obtained from the higher
parts of the parish and from Nether Banchory. It is
also used for smoking and curing Finnan haddocks. Coal
is also used.
1838
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St
Cyrus |
 |
| Looking
towards St Cyrus parish from Montrose |
OSA
Vol. 11, page 89
Page 90 The Montrose to Aberdeen road passes through the
parish.
Page 92 River and Bridge. The North Esk used to
be crossed by a ferry boat and a dangerous ford on the
way to Montrose but 20 years ago a bridge costing 6500L
was built.
Page 95 There is a bridge over Den Fenel on the post road
between Montrose and Aberdeen.
Page 96 Roads etc. The dens in this parish (narrow,
steep-sided valleys) have made the forming of high roads
very difficult. Even 35 years ago a journey to Montrose
in a carriage required crossing the North Esk by a dangerous
ford then climbing a “steep water-worn path”
to higher ground, with 3 other dens with their steep sides
to negotiate. There was no made road at all on this route,
just paths.
However, things are much improved with bridges over the
North Esk and Den Fenel, the Burn of Woodston, and the
Den of Laurieston. The Bridge of Laurieston is soon to
be heightened as it is still difficult. The provision
of turnpike roads is under consideration and these will
be of great benefit.
Page 98 Minerals. There are limestone quarries
here. The limestone from East Mathers “is carried
to the distance of 12 miles, by steep, rough roads, over
the Hill of Garvock, into the How of the Mearns, (part
of the valley of Strathmore); and is found to answer all
the expence a considerable way up the sides of the Grampians.”
Other quarries supply building stone to Montrose and elsewhere.
Page 110 Black cattle sold at market.
Page 114 Markets at Hill of Garvock and Laurencekirk.
NSA
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Page 270 Mention of North water Bridge.
Page 271 Small harbour at Sea-greens which can service
small vessels.
Page 286 Eleven carters in the parish.
Page 289 Details of quarries.
Page 291 Parochial Economy.
Market town. Montrose.
Means of Communication. Branch post-office at
Bush of Woodston with daily deliveries. Prior to this,
mail was taken through Montrose which was time consuming
and expensive. The mail coach between Edinburgh and
Aberdeen passes through. There are regular steam boats
at Johnshaven which sail to Aberdeen, Inverness, Leith
etc. Boats also go between Montrose and Newhaven.
Roads and bridges are good. The bridge over the North
Esk was built in 1775 and cost L6500. It lies on the
great north road as does another bridge built in 1817
at a cost of L600.
Page 296 Ale-houses. Three. One is at the North
Water Bridge toll.
Fuel. Coal brought from Montrose and Johnshaven.
1841
MacFarlane
Description
of Aberluthnet Parish, Benholm, Garvok, Cyris, Glenbervie
in Merns, Edzel in Angus 1724
Cyris
Vol.1, Page 264 Mention of North Esk bridge and passage
boat on this river. Mention of highway.
 Strachen
OSA
Vol. 5, page 375
Page 375 An excellent road over Cairnie-mount with fine
bridges makes it easy to travel from the south to the
north and east of the country. It is used by many travellers.
Page 375 Lime available locally. Peat is the common fuel.
NSA
11/231
Page 239 Parochial Economy.
Market-Towns. Aberdeen, Stonehaven, and Montrose.
There are carriers to Montrose and Aberdeen.
Post office at Banchory.
Roads. The roads are turnpiked and in excellent
order though narrow and needing side parapets on some
stretches. The farm roads, however, are very bad.
In a footnote he tells a story about an attempted robbery
on the Cairn o’Mount road, “the great line
of road across the Grampians.” The story was set
about 150 years before, hence the late 1600’s.
Bridges. The bridges are in good condition although
that at Whitestone was destroyed in the great flood
of 1829. A temporary wooden bridge is replacing it,
one mile from the old location.
Page 243 Fairs. There is an old fair at Cuttieshillock
but as there as so many markets in the area it is now
poorly attended.
Inns. Four. They are all on public roads: Scoliescross,
one mile north of the Bridge of Dye; Cuttieshillock
2 miles north of this on the Cairn road - this is one
of the oldest inns in the north; Whitestone; and near
Strachan church on the Banchory road.
Fuel. Peat and wood.
MacFarlane
Description Upper Banchory, Doors and Strachan in Merns
with notes of Mary Culter etc 1724 Strachan
Vol.1, Page 260 Public highway runs over Carne of Month
and has stone bridges on it, over the Dee, three miles
SW of the church at Spittleburn. There are also bridges
on the Feuch and Burn of Camie.
Description of some paroches in Merns and Aberdenshire
Strachan
Vol.1, Page 428 Public highway passes through to the
Cailuementh. Bridges on Fench, Dy, Spitel Burn.
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